Elevation

The angle at which you hold the hair away from the head before cutting.

• 0 degrees: No elevation. Creates a blunt, solid line (Bob).
• 45 degrees: Low elevation. Builds weight and creates a graduated stack (Wedge).
• 90 degrees: High elevation. Removes weight and creates uniform layers.
• 180 degrees: Over-direction. Creates long layers (Shag).

Tension

The pressure applied to the hair while holding it. Consistent tension is crucial for even lines. Curly hair requires less tension because it shrinks when dry; straight hair can handle more.

Texturizing

Techniques used after the main structure is cut to soften lines or remove bulk. Includes point cutting (snipping into the ends), slicing, and using thinning shears.

Prep & Product

Apply a heat protectant and a volumizer (root lift) or smoothing cream depending on the desired result. Hair is most malleable when wet and warm; it sets when dry and cool.

Rough Dry

Remove 80% of the moisture using just the dryer and your fingers. Trying to round-brush soaking wet hair causes fatigue and heat damage.

Sectioning

Divide hair into manageable zones. Start at the nape of the neck and work up. Clean sections = clean results.

The Round Brush

Create tension with the brush. Direct the airflow down the hair shaft (from root to tip) to smooth the cuticle and create shine. To add volume, over-direct the root upward.